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C Unscrew the nut.

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  1. A Unscrew the bolt (arrowed)... 20.7b ... then remove the cam
  2. Slacken the lockouts (A), then unscrew the linkage rod (B)
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  4. Unscrew the nuts (arrowed) and remove the tail light
  5. А Lift the flap and unscrew the bolt...

Engine, clutch and transmission 2*31


17.2d... and slide the bracket off


17.3a Align the slots as shown...


17.3b... and detach the inner cable


 




18.6 The pressure relief valve is a push-fit

cable and draw the bracket off (see Illustrations).

3 Align the slots in the adjuster and lockwheel at the handlebar end of the cable with that in the lever bracket, then pull the outer cable end from the socket in the adjuster and release the inner cable from the lever (see illustrations). Remove the cable from the machine, noting its routing through the guide on the top yoke.

BTPWPTI Before removing the cable

lifimlTl from the bikei tgpe tne,ower

Hi lUl end of the new cable to the upper end of the old cable. Slowly pull the lower end of the old cable out, guiding the new cable down into position. Using this method will ensure the cable is routed correctly.

4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply grease to the cable ends. Make sure the cable is correctly routed. Adjust the amount of clutch lever freeplay (see Chapter 1).

Oil sump, oil strainer and

pressure relief valve - removal, |k

inspection and installation ^

Note: The oil sump, strainer and pressure relief valve can be removed with the engine In the frame. If the engine has been removed. ignore the steps which don't apply.

Removal

1 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).

2 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

3 Remove the exhaust system (see Chap­ter 4).

4 Unscrew the sump bolts, slackening them evenly in a criss-cross sequence to prevent distortion, and remove the sump (see illustration). Discard the gasket as a new one must be used.

5 Unscrew the bolt(s) securing the oil strainer and pull it out of the oi pump (see illustration). Remove the O-ring and discard It as a new one must be used.

6 The pressure relief valve is a push-fit into its


socket in the crankcase. Pull it out, then discard the O-ring as a new one must be used (see illustration).

Inspection

7 Remove all traces of gasket from the sump and crankcase mating surfaces, and clean the inside of the sump with solvent.

8 Clean the oil strainer in solvent and remove any debris caught in the mesh. Inspect the strainer for any signs of wear or damage and renew it if necessary.

9 Push the relief valve plunger into the valve body and check that it moves smoothly and freely against the spring pressure (see illustration). If the valve operation is rough or sticky, remove the clrclip, noting that it is

18.4 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and remove the sump


under spring pressure, and withdraw the washer, spring and piston. Clean all the parts in solvent and inspect the plunger and bore for wear and damage. Apply oil to all parts and reassemble the valve. Check its operation again as above - If il is still rough or sticky it must be renewed - individual components are not available.

Installation

10 Fit a new O-ring onto the relief valve and smear it with clean oil. then push the valve Into its socket in the crankcase (see illustration 18.6).

11 Fit a new O-ring onto the oil strainer and smear it with clean oil. then align the bolt hole(s) and push the strainer into the oil pump

18.5 Unscrew the oil strainer bolt(s)

(arrowed) and remove the strainer - L, N

18.9 Check the operation of the valve as described

and R models shown


2*32 Engine, clutch and transmission




 

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18.11 Fit the strainer using a new O-ring


18.12 Fit a new gasket...


18.13... then install the cover


 



(see illustration). Install the bolt(s) and tighten them.

12 Lay a new gasket onto the sump (i(the engine is In the frame) or onto Ihe crankcase (if the engine has been removed and is positioned upside down on the work surface) (see illustration). Make sure the holes in the gasket align correctly with the bolt holes.

13 Position the sump onto the crankcase and install the bolts finger-tight (see illustration). Tighten the bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern.

14 Install the exhaust system (see Chapter 4).

15 Refill the engine with oil (see Chapter 1). Start the engine and check for leaks around the sump.

16 Install the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).

19.3 Lock the sprocket as shown and unscrew the bolt (arrowed)


 

I

19 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation

Note: The oil pump can be removed with the engine in the frame. If the engine has been removed, ignore the steps which don't apply.

Removal

1 Remove the sump and oil strainer (see Section 18).

2 Remove the clutch and the oil pump drive sprocket and chain (see Section 16).

3 Using a screwdriver or steel rod located as

19.4 Unscrew the two bolts (arrowed) and remove the pump


shown, unscrew the driven sprocket bolt and remove the sprocket from the pump (see illustration). Note tns scribe marks on the back of the oil pump driven sprocket which must face inwards.

4 Unscrew the two bolts securing the pump
to the crankcase, then remove the pump,
noting how it fits (see illustration).

Inspection

5 Remove the dowels, then remove the screws securing the pump cover to the body and separate them (see illustration).

6 Withdraw the pump driveshaft along with the inner rotor, then remove the outer rotor from the pump body (see illustration). Retrieve the thrust washer If it isn't with the shaft. Note how the pin locates through the shaft and in the notches In the inner rotor, and how the punch mark on the outer rotor faces the pump cover. Clean all the components In solvent.

7 Inspect the pump body and rotors for scoring and wear (see illustration). If any damage, scoring or uneven or excessive wear is evident, renew the pump (individual components are not available). If the engine is being rebuilt, it is advisable to fit a new oil pump as a matter of course.

8 Measure the clearance between the inner rotor tip and the ouler rotor with a feeler gauge and compare it to the maximum clearance listed in the specifications at the


19.5 Remove the dowels (A) and the 19.6 Withdraw the driveshaft and inner 19.7 Look for scoring and wear, such as

screws (B) and remove the cover rotor on this cuter rotor


Engine, clutch and transmission 2*33



 

   

19.8 Measuring inner rotor tip-to-outer rotor clearance


19.9 Measuring outer rotor-to-body clearance


19.10 Measuring rotor end-float


 


beginning of the Chapter (see illustration). If the clearance measured Is greater than the maximum listed, renew the pump.

9 Measure the clearance between the outer
rotor and the pump body with a feeler gauge
and compare it to the maximum clearance
listed in the specifications at the beginning of
the Chapter (see illustration). If the clearance
measured Is greater than the maximum listed.
renew the pump.

10 Lay a straight-edge across the rotors and
the pump body and. using a feeler gauge.
measure the rotor end-float (the gap between
the rotors and the straight-edge (see
illustration). If the clearance measured is
greater than the maximum listed, renew the
pump.


 

11 Check the pump drive chain and sprockets for wear or damage, and renew them as a set if necessary.

12 If the pump is good, make sure all the components are clean, then lubricate them with new engine oil.

13 Install the outer rotor into the pump body with the punch mark facing out towards the pump cover (see illustration).

14 Fit the drive pin Into the pump driveshaft and slide the inner rotor onto the thin-tabbed end of the shaft, making sure the pin ends fit into the notches in (he bottom of the rotor. Slide the thrust washer onto the thick-tabbed end of the shaft and against the bottom of the inner rotor. Fit the shaft and inner rotor into the pump body (see illustration).


15 Install the cover and tighten the screws
securely, then fit the dowels into the pump
body (see illustrations).

Installation

16 Position the water pump and oil pump driveshaft slots vertically so thai they engage easily when the pump is installed.

17 Manoeuvre the pump Into position, making sure it engages correctly with the water pump and the dowels locate correctly (see illustration). Fit the pump mounting bolts and tighten them securely (see illustration).

18 Fit the driven sprocket onto the oil pump, making sure that the scribe lines face the


 



 


 


19.13 Fit the outer rotor with its punch mark (arrowed) facing out


19.14 Slide the shaft with the thrust

washer (A), drive pin (B) and inner rotor (C)

into the pump


19.15a Fit the cover.


 



 

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19.15b... then push in the dowels


19.17a Align the drive tab with the slot when fitting the pump...


19.17b... then install the bolts


2»34 Engine, clutch and transmission




19.18a Fit the sprocket...


19.18b... then apply a thread-lock to the bolt...


 


engine (see illustration). Clean the bolt threads, then apply a suitable non-permanent thread locking compound and tighten the bolt to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the chapter, using a screwdriver as before to prevent the sprocket turning (see illustrations).

19 Install the oil pump chain and driven sprocket and the clutch (see Section 16).

20 Install the oil strainer and sump (see Section 18).

20 Gearchange mechanism - ||>

removal, inspection and ^

installation ^

Note: The gearchange mechanism (external components) can be removed with the engine in the frame. If the engine has been removed, ignore the steps which don't apply.


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Читайте в этой же книге: B ... and the clutch cable | L, N and R models | Plastigauge container | Make sure the gasket locates onto the dowels (A) and the UP mark (B) reads correctly | B ... then install the follower | C ... then fit the spring retainer | Cylinder block (J and К | Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and remove the cover | C ... and tighten it to the specified torque | A clutch centre holding tool can easily be made using two strips of steel bent over at the ends and bolted together in the middle |
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Check the plain plates for warpage 16.15 Measuring clutch spring free length| J and К models

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