6 Pad spring
7 Fluid seals
8 Dust seals
10 Slider pin
Slider pinDust bootDust bootPad plate Caliper bracket
Brakes, wheels and tyres 7*5
|3.17 Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to the specified torque|
3.6 Remove the dust seal with a plastic or wooden tool (a penci works well) to avoid damage to the bore and seal groove
Warning: Never place your fingers in front of the pistons in an attempt to catch or protect them when applying compressed air, as serious injury could result.
6 Using a wooden or plastic tool, remove the dust seals from the caliper bores (see illustration).Discard them as new ones must be used on installation. If a metal tool is being used, take great care not to damage the caliper bores.
7 Remove and discard the piston seals in the same way.
8 Clean the pistons and bores with denatured alcohol, clean brake fluid or brake system cleaner. If compressed air is available, use it to dry the parts thoroughly (тзке sure it's filtered and unlubricated).
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, use a petroleum-based solvent to clean brake parts.
9 Inspect the caliper bores and pistons for
signs of corrosion, nicks and burrs and loss of
plating. If surface defects are present, the
caliper assembly must be renewed. If the
necessary measuring equipment is available,
compare the dimensions of the pistons and
bores to those given in the Soecifications
Section of this Chapter, renewing any
component that is worn beyond the service
limit. If the caliper is in bad shape the master
cylinder should also be checked.
10 Clean off all traces of corrosion from the slider pins and their bores in the caliper and bracket. Renew the rubber dust boots if they are damaged or deteriorated. If a pin is loose, remove them both and clean the threads. Apply a suitable non-permanent thread locking compound and tighten them to the specified torque,
11Lubricate the new piston seals with clean brake fluid and install them in their grooves in the caliper bores.
12 Lubricate the new dust seals with clean brake fluid and install them in their grooves in the caliper bores.
13 Lubricate the pistons with clean brake fluid and install them closed-end first into the caliper bores. Using your thumbs, push the pistons all the way in, making sure they enter the bore squarely.
14 If removed, fit the pads spring and pad plate, making sure they are correctly positioned as noted on removal (see illustration 3.4).Apply a smear of copper or silicone based grease to the slider pins, then slide the caliper onto the bracket and check that it is able to move freely.
|4.2 Set up a dial gauge with its probe contacting the brake disc, then rotate the wheel to check for runout|
15If the caliper has not been overhauled, slide the caliper off the caliper bracket, noting how it fits, and clean all old grease from the slider pins. Renew the rubber boots if they are damaged or deteriorated. Apply a smear of copper or silicone based grease to the slider pins, then slide the caliper onto the bracket and check that it is able to move freely.
16 Slide the caliper onto the brake disc, making sure the pads sit squarely each side of the disc (if they weren't removed) (see illustration 3.3b).
17Install the caliper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter (see illustration).
18If removed, connect the brake hose to the caliper, using new sealing washers on each side of the fitting. Align the hose as noted on removal. Tighten the banjo bolt to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter. Top up the master cylinder reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid (see Daily (pre-ride) checks) and bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 11.
19 If removed, install the brake pads (see Section 2),
20 Check that there are no fluid leaks and thoroughly test the operation of the brake before riding the motorcycle.
4 Front brake discs -
inspection, removal and installation
1 Visually inspect the surface of the disc for score marks and other damage. Light scratches are normal after use and won't affect brake operation, but deep grooves and heavy score marks will reduce braking efficiency and accelerate pad wear. If a disc is badly grooved it must be machined or renewed.
2 To check disc runout, position the bike on an auxiliary stand and support it so that the wheel Is raised off the ground. Mount a dial gauge on a fork leg, with the plunger on the gauge touching the surface of the disc about 10 mm from the outer edge (see illustration).Rotate the wheel and watch the gauge needle, comparing the reading with the limit listed in the Specifications at the beginning of
the Chapter. If the runout is greater than the "t service limit, check the wheel bearings for play (see Chapter 1). If the bearings are worn, renew them (see Section 16) and repeat this check. If the disc runout is still excessive, it will have to be renewed, although machining by an engineer may be possible.
3 The disc must not be machined or allowed
7*6 Brakes, wheels and tyres
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|If the pads have worn to or beyond the|||||A The minimum disc thickness is marked on each disc|