Civilised charm of the Nieman

Simple pleasures when holidaying in Belarus

By Irina Trofilova

River rafting is such pleasure, especially when you're surrounded by natural beauty and have some spicy shashlik kebabs and herbal liqueurs to hand. An outdoor fire and some improvised music complete the idyllic scene. Who needs to travel abroad when such charm is on the door-step? The Nad Niemanom farmstead, in Berezovka in the Lida district, is keen to welcome guests. The home of Belarusian crystal is easy to reach and it's just 2km walk to Oksana and Valery Salkovsky's cosy home, located on the bank of the fast moving river. The farmstead's hostess usually meets her guests as they approach. After a short rest, most are ready to start their adventures.

Oksana tells us, "Valera and I are local people — born in Berezovka. About seven years ago, we built this house and have been welcoming agro-tourists for the past 3 years. Valera made the raft himself and trips down the river on it are particularly popular." The raft is a simple affair, made to seat 6-8 people and with a roof to protect against sun or rain. The journey starts at Lyubcha village in the Novogrudok district and lasts 2-3 days; it covers 50km. Valery presides and is happy to alter the schedule depending on his guests' wishes. "Some want to camp on the bank while others prefer to eat shashlik during their trip," Oksana explains.

In addition, Oksana has a range of herbal remedies on offer: wonderful liqueurs made from elecampane and birch buds, wines and compotes and unique kvass (a beer-like concoction). Americans have already sampled her birch juice. Most guests come from Minsk and Moscow, although visitors from outside the CIS are common as well. Many return a second time, attracted by the beauty of nature, good service, national cuisine (Oksana's machanka — a traditional Belarusian stew served with pancakes — is very popular), and the melodies of the gusli (an ancient Slavonic musical instrument). Valery is a graduate of the St. Petersburg Conservatoire and plays the gusli very well. His recently built guslar house is to house lovers of folk music. The Salkovskys have also built a banya and have plenty of plans for the future. They aren't afraid of challenges: it took ages to get a fixed phone line for instance.

The Nad Niemanom hosts can organise tours to the castles of Mir and Lida, to Novogrudok, Nesvizh and to Lake Svityaz. Excursions to the glass factory are also popular and tourists can see medieval knights battle during the summer months. The Salkovskys also offer honey weeks. Newly-weds are among the most regular visitors, being keen to enjoy each others' company in this fabulous beauty spot.

The Minsk Times

Belarus and World

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