Figure 21. Darts.

TEXT TWO

DARTS AND GATHERING

Darts are used to provide shaping and can be curved or straight, and single- or double-pointed. The length, width, shape and position of darts will depend on the design of the garment or item, and they may need to be altered to give a correct fit. Any corresponding darts should be realigned to match.

Darts are normally worked on the wrong side unless they are used as a decorative feature. Before stitching a dart, check the fit and adjust the position and shape of the darts as required. Darts should always taper to a fine point to fit well. Slashed darts are pressed flat and other types are pressed to one side. Always press darts before proceeding to the next stage of making up;

Making a Simple Dart

1. Mark the position of the dart with tailor's tacks or a tracing wheel. Fold the dart in half, matching the markings carefully.

2. Pin and tack the dart starting at the raw edge and tapering to a fine point.

3. Check the fit and adjust the dart. Remove the tailor's tacks and stitch starting at the raw edge.

Reinforce the point by working a few reverse stitches. Press as ap­propriate.

Special Finishes for Darts

Deep dart. A dart which is made with a deep fold should be slashed along the fold to within 1.5 cm (5/8 in) of the point. Overcast the edges if the fabric is liable to fray, and then press the dart open.

Curved dart. A curved dart should be clipped along the curve. Re­inforce the curve with a second line of stitching, then press to one side.

Figure 21. Darts.

Contour dart. A contour dart is pointed at both ends. After stitch­ing the dart, clip it at the widest point almost up to the stitched line and work a second line of stitching along the curve as a reinforcement. Overcast the clipped edges if the fabric is liable to fray.

Gathering and Shirring

Gathering and shirring are both formed by drawing up a piece of fabric by means of rows of stitching. Gathering is worked near the edge of a piece of fabric which will then be joined to an ungathered piece. Frills are made by this method. Shirring is worked in a band across the fabric in the same way as smocking.

Gathering can be worked by hand with evenly spaced rows of run­ning stitch or on a machine using the longest stitch length available.

Use a long piece of thread for the running stitch to allow you to com­plete each section of stitching without а breath

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