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(130 Jinxian Rd; 130 dishes Y12-65; 11am-2pm & 5-9pm; South Shaanxi Rd) The best Shanghainese kitchens are the hole-in-the-walls along Jinxian Rd. These aren’t design-heavy spots started by savvy investors or international superchefs; they’re unpretentious and family- run – the last of a dying breed. Dishes to savour include the classic hongshao rou (braised pork), the delectable ganshao changyu (quick-fried pomfret fish) and even the xiaopai luobo tang (spare-rib-and-radish soup).
For total immersion, order a bottle of warm huang jiu (traditional Chinese wine). If the wait is too long, Haijinzi Offline map Google map (240 Jinxian Rd) at the western end of the street is a comparable experience. No reservations, no English and cash only.
Din Tai Fung Dumplings $$
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(Ding Tai Feng; 6385 8378; Xintiandi South Block, 2nd fl, Bldg 6; 123 6 2 10 dumplings Y58-88; 10am-midnight; ; South Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi) To-die-for dumplings and classy service from Taiwan’s most famous chain (Click here). It’s on the 2nd floor, in the mall. Reserve.
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