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More English captions would be nice, but this professional museum attracts Chinese art lovers with often excellent temporary exhibitions of modern and contemporary art from home and abroad.
FORBIDDEN CITY 紫禁城
For 500 years commoners were prohibited from entering the Forbidden City ( 
6513 2255; www.dpm.org.cn; Dongchang ’ an Jie 东长安街; admission Nov-Mar Y40, Apr-Oct Y60; 
8.30am-4pm May-Sep, 8.30am-3.30pm Oct-Apr; 
Tiananmen Xi or Tiananmen Dong). Now, anyone willing to pay the entrance fee can experience this extraordinary palace.
The Forbidden City was initially built under the auspices of Emperor Yongle between 1406 and 1420. From then until the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911, this sprawling complex was the seat of Chinese government.
Despite its venerable age, the combination of wooden architecture and naked flame (lantern festivals, fireworks, arson) has meant that parts of the palace have been incinerated and rebuilt many times over the centuries. Consequently, much of the present-day Forbidden City dates from the 18th century onwards.
Despite the fact that only around half the complex is open to visitors, it’s still so vast that you could easily spend several days exploring it. One possible itinerary is to begin your tour at the Three Great Halls, the heart of the palace. Start with the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the palace’s biggest and most important structure. This was the site of the imperial court’s grandest events, including coronations and royal birthdays. Inside the hall, the throne is guarded by two luduan (mythical beasts who can detect if a person is lying).
North of here, the Hall of Middle Harmony was a kind of backstage area where the emperor stopped to compose himself and consult with ministers before entering the Hall of Supreme Harmony. Next, the Hall of Preserving Harmony was used for state banquets and later for imperial examinations. Behind the hall, a 17m marble carriageway carved with dragons leads up to the entrance.
The royals’ former living quarters are at the back of the palace grounds. The emperor resided in the Palace of Heavenly Purity, until the mid-Qing dynasty when it became an audience hall in which ambassadors and other luminaries were received. The empress’s digs were in the Palace of Earthly Tranquillity.
On the western and eastern sides of the Forbidden City are an assortment of libraries, temples, theatres and gardens. Some are now museums that require additional entry fees. Make sure you visit the Hall of Jewellery (admission Y10), and don’t miss the Clocks & Watches Gallery (admission Y10). The gallery boasts a dazzling array of timepieces, many of which were gifts to the Qing emperors from abroad.
At the northern end of the Forbidden City is the Imperial Garden, a classical Chinese garden with 7000 sq metres of fine landscaping, including rockeries, walkways, pavilions and ancient – carbuncular and deformed – cypresses.
An audio-guide is available for Y40, with a Y100 deposit. For more background on the Forbidden City, see.
POLY ART MUSEUM 保利艺术博物馆
offline map
Www.polyculture.com.cn; New Poly Plaza, Chaoyangmen Beidajie 新保利大厦, 朝阳门北大街; admission Y20; 9.30am-4.30pm; Dongsishitiao
An arm of the government, the Poly Group set up this museum to house the incredible bronzes and stone Buddhist effigies it has spent much time and money buying at international auctions, after they were pillaged during China’s past. It’s an amazing collection.
QIANMEN 前门
offline map
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| Changpu Heyan 菖蒲河沿 9 号 ; admission Y20; 10am-5.30pm, last entry 4.30pm; Tiananmen Dong | | | Www.rbtys.com, in Chinese; 38 Guozijian Jie 国子监街 38 号 ; 10am-7pm; Andingmen |