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This 69-year-old retired school teacher was born and has lived in the hutong near the Drum Tower all his life

Top of chapter THIS IS BEIJING | WALK IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF EMPERORS AT THE FORBIDDEN CITY | MARVEL AT THIS ULTIMATE EXPRESSION OF MING DYNASTY ARCHITECTURE | MUSIC, ART & LITERARY FESTIVALS TO KEEP AN EYE ON | SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER & NOVEMBER | FORWARD PLANNING | Changpu Heyan 菖蒲河沿 9 号 ; admission Y20; 10am-5.30pm, last entry 4.30pm; Tiananmen Dong | Www.namoc.org, in Chinese; 1 Wusi Dajie 五四大街 1 号 ; admission Y20; 9am-4pm Tue-Sun; Dongsi | Www.rbtys.com, in Chinese; 38 Guozijian Jie 国子监街 38 号 ; 10am-7pm; Andingmen | Sanlitun Lu 三里屯北路 3 号 ; 11am-midnight; Tuanjiehu |


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What were the hutong like when you were a kid? None of the courtyard houses had been divided up; that happened after the Cultural Revolution. My family shared a large courtyard in Xiang Er Hutongwith two other families. No one was rich but no one was starving, so I suppose we were middle- class. Beijing must have been a very different city then. It was still the old town. The city walls hadn’t been knocked down and the people living in the hutong were real old Beijingers, the ones who’ve been here since the late Ming dynasty, like my family. What changes to Beijing do you notice the most? Living conditions are much better. But there was much more of a community before they started demolishing a lot of the hutong. Wouldn’t you prefer to live in a modern apartment? Even if I had the money to buy an apartment, I’d still want to live in the hutong. Living here, you’re in touch with the earth. In an apartment block, you’re too far from the ground.

 


>NORTH CHAOYANG 朝阳北

SEE

C5Art C3 2. Dongyue Temple B6 SHOP

Rouge Baiser C3 4. Sanlitun Yashow Clothing Market C5 EAT

Bellagio B6 6. Bocata D4 7. Element Fresh D5 8. Haitanghua Pyongyang Cold Noodle Restaurant C2 See 7. Herbal Café D5 9. Jenny Lou's C3 10. Mosto D4 11. Pure Lotus Vegetarian E5 12. Purple Haze C4 13. Rumi D5 14. Three Guizhou Men B6 15. Xinjiang Red Rose Restaurant B5 DRINK


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