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Food is an absolute obsession for the Chinese and eating out is the favourite social activity for Beijingers. With over 60,000 restaurants in the capital, and countless thousands of street food stands, they’re spoilt for choice and so will you be. Beijing is a foodies’ paradise because, apart from serving up the local cuisine and an ever-increasing number of international ones, the city’s restaurants offer food from every corner of the country. You can eat your way across China without ever leaving Beijing.
Although there are many regional differences, Chinese cuisine has four main schools, one for each compass point. Beijing food is classified as ‘northern cuisine’, which makes heavy use of wheat and millet, with noodles and steamed dumplings (jiaozi) popular staples. Peking duck is the city’s most famous dish. Beijingers, though, are equally enthusiastic about hotpot, which has Mongol origins, and the local street food (Beijing xiaochi 北京小吃) which involves anything that can be whipped up roadside or skewered on a stick.
Sichuan (western cuisine) is popular all over China for its fiery taste, which comes from extensive use of tongue-searing red chilli and flower pepper. Shanghai, or eastern cuisine, is more delicate and sweet and uses a lot of fish and fresh vegetables. Cantonese (southern cuisine) is the Chinese food many foreigners have experienced in their home countries, because most overseas Chinese restaurants are run by people from Hong Kong and southern China. But it’s much more exotic in China. It’s also the least spicy of all the cuisines.
Dining Chinese-style is a noisy, chaotic and often messy affair. Beijingers like to eat in big groups and they’re at their most relaxed and gregarious when sitting around the dining table. Restaurants aren’t judged by their decor or service; the only thing that matters is the food and the company. Most Chinese dishes are meant to be eaten communally, with everyone digging in with their chopsticks, and a selection of cold and hot meat, fish and vegetable dishes is the standard order. Don’t worry about dropping food; you won’t be the only one doing so.
Roast duck, soon to be sliced and laid out with tiny pancakes, dipping sauce, green onions and cucumber
GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES
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