Galicia

Remote in the northwest corner of the Iberian peninsula, Galicia is a green, rainswept region remarkable for the diversity of its landscape, where coastal cliffs alternate with lowlands and rías. The region is famous for its excellent cuisine, while pilgrims flock here to visit the city of Santiago de Compostela. The Galicians, whose origins are Celtic, are fiercely proud of their culture and language.

Traditionally, Galicia was seen as a poor agricultural region, whose economy did not lend itself to modernization. It absorbed little Roman influence, was never conquered by the Moors, and in the Middle Ages fell under the control of the kingdom of Asturias. It was only very briefly an independent monarchy, in the 10th and 11th centuries. Bordering Portugal to the south and enclosed by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, Galicia could offer its inhabitants little in the way of new land for cultivation; overpopulation and unemployment forced many to emigrate. Yet, in the 20th century, Galicia began to develop, and today traditional lifestyles rub shoulders with modernity. Galicia has always maintained strong links with the sea; the port cities of Vigo and A Coruña tare centres of culture, commerce, and industry. Fishing is vital to the economy, and Galician seafood is the best in Spain. The coastline, cut with fjordlike rías, is dotted with fishing villages. Enormous efforts have been made to clean up damage caused by the 2002 sinking of the Prestige oil tanker, and most of the coast has now recovered. Mainland Spain’s most westerly point – the heather-clad Cabo Fisterra – is situated on this rugged stretch of coast. Even more magical is the pilgrimage centre of Santiago de Compostela, the region’s capital. Romantic hillsides shrouded in mist conceal the remains of Celtic settlements; at road junctions and in the towns stand weathered stone crosses, while in the villages old granaries can be seen. The picture is completed by the sound of Galicians’ favourite instrument – the bagpipes – and their language, gallego, which bears strong similarities to Portuguese.

Ribadeo

Galicia’s north coast, between Ribadeo and Ferrol, is an area of natural beauty known as the Rías Altas, formed from ría inlets and beautiful bays. The characterful fishing town of Ribadeo, with its attractive harbour, occupies a picturesque setting on the banks of the Ría de Ribadeo. Among the many observation points here are the hill of Santa Cruz, with its monument of a piper, and La Atalaya, formerly a bastion. The beach at As Catedrais is known for its rock formations that recall Gothic buildings and arches. The waters of the ría can be explored by pleasure boat from the nearby haven of Porcillán. The town itself is home to the Colegiata de Santa María del Campo (18th century), with two Baroque altarpieces. Inside are earlier elements – Romanesque arches and two Gothic portals with plant ornamentation. Another attraction is the Modernist residence of the brothers Moreno, which recalls the work of Antoni Gaudí. Environs North of Ribadeo lies the 18th-century fort of San Damián, which once defended the mouth of the ría. It is now a municipal exhibition space. About 10 km (6 miles) west of Ribadeo is the fishing town of Foz, which also has fine beaches. Nearby is the Romanesque Iglesia de San Martín de Mondoñedo.

Mondoñedo

Situated in a valley, this was the provincial capital for nearly four centuries, and as a result has an unusual number of fine buildings for such a small town. Its oldest monument is the 13th-century Romanesque Catedral de la Asunción, which was remodelled during the Gothic and Baroque periods. It features 14th-century murals and a figure of the Virgin brought here from St Paul’s Cathedral in London. Its Museo Diocesano has works by Zurbarán and El Greco, and the 18th-century Palacio Episcopal contains a NeoGothic chapel. Nearby is the Fonte Vella, a 16thcentury fountain decorated with the coat of arms of Charles V; beyond it extends the old Jewish quarter.

Viveiro

Situated on the beautiful ría of the same name, Viveiro is the prettiest and most popular town in the Rías Altas, with good hotels and restaurants. Fragments of its medieval walls survive – their most beautiful feature is the Plateresque Gate of Charles V, by Maestro Pedro Poderoso. It is decorated with coats of arms, medallions and an image of St Roch, the town’s patron saint. Facing the gate is the 15th-century bridge, Ponte de la Misericordia. Of note is the Romanesque Iglesia de Santa María del Campo, with a Baroque belfry and a 19th-century clock tower. The RomanesqueGothic Iglesia de San Francisco has a beautiful apse. On the Praza Maior, where a cheese and vegetable market is held each Thursday, stands the town hall, with a sundial and 17th- and 19th-century houses. Nearby rises the Renaissance Casa de los Leones, with lions on the coat of arms. The district of Covas borders a long white beach. The hill of San Roque overlooks the town and offers fine views. Environs The Ría de Viveiro constitutes the mouth of the Landro river and is part of the Rías Altas region. The area is characterized by high waves, beaches with fine white sand, and an abundance of fish. During a storm in the 19th century, two ships – the Magdalena and the Paloma – sank here.

Ortigueira

The main attractions here are the fantastic beaches and the diverse landscape of fertile valleys, hills and steep cliffs. The town’s architecture dates mainly from the 19th and 20th centuries, but in the Museo Ortegalia an exhibition traces the region’s prehistory, including the oldest Galician megaliths (4400 BC). North of town lie the ruins of Punta dos Prados – a settlement dating from the 4th to the 1st centuries BC.

Cedeira

One of the prettiest villages in the Rias Altas, Cedeira spans the river Condomiñas, and has excellent beaches, exquisite seafood, a tiny fishing harbour and good conditions for watersports. The surrounding area is ideal for fishing and hunting. In the medieval old town, fragments of the town walls are preserved. The parish Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Mar de Cedeira dates from the 15th century. Some 12 km (8 miles) away, perched above the Atlantic atop sheer surf-battered cliffs in wild, windswept countryside is the 12th-century Monasterio de San Andrés de Teixido, a Galician shrine that once belonged to the Knights of Malta. The earliest preserved fragments in the monastery are the late-Gothic north portal, and the murals depicting the martyrdom of St Andrew. It is customary for pilgrims to throw breadcrumbs into the nearby spring, which flows from underneath the church’s altar. Legend has it that if a crumb floats, your wish will be fulfilled.

Ferrol

Ferrol has strong links with the sea – some of the ships in the Spanish Armada set sail from its port. Yet it wasn’t until the 18th century that the town became an important naval base, acquiring an arsenal, shipyards, and the castle of San Felipe, which defended the mouth of the local ría. The intriguing Magdalena district was laid out in symmetrical Neoclassical style in the 18th century. It features many houses with glass balconies, as well as the 18th-century Iglesia de San Xulián with Mannerist elements, designed by Julián Sánchez Bort. Environs Lying 10 km (6 miles) south of Ferrol is Pontedeume, an attractive medieval town that boasts a tower with a huge coat of arms, built in the 14th century in honour of Count Andrade. There is also an equally old bridge, in the middle of which once stood a hostel for pilgrims and a hermitage. Andrade’s castle is nearby, while hidden in the forest is the 12th-century monastery of Caaveiro.

A Coruña

The oldest town in Galicia, A Coruña is mentioned in Irish myths about a Celtic hero by the name of Breogán, who came to the Iberian coast and built a tower here. The famous lighthouse – Torre de Hércules – dates from the Roman period. A Coruña is also the birthplace of María Pita, who became a Galician heroine by leading local resistance to a raid by Sir Francis Drake in 1589. The town has been an im Exploring A Coruña A Coruña boasts the longest sea promenade in Europe, with magnificent red-pillared lighthouses and old trams running along its length. The most important historic monuments, as well as the town centre, are laid out on an isthmus leading to a headland.portant commercial port for centuries.

Exploring A Coruña

Coruña boasts the longest sea promenade in Europe, with magnificent red-pillared lighthouses and old trams running along its length. The most important historic monuments, as well as the town centre, are laid out on an isthmus leading to a headland.

Museo de Belas Artes

This modern building houses Spanish and European paintings from the 16th to the 20th centuries, as well as 19thand 20th-century Galician art. There are also prints by Goya and ceramics by the celebrated local factory of Sargadelos.

Avenida de la Marina

The harbourfront promenade known as the Avenida de la Marina is one of A Coruña’s great landmarks. Houses with gleaming glass-enclosed balconies, or galerías, run along its length; these are best viewed from the Real Club Náutico. At one end rises a memorial obelisk topped by a clock with four dials (1845).

Plaza María Pita

This sumptuous, harmoniously designed square bears the name of Galicia’s national heroine, who defended the town against the English, led by the navigator and buccaneer Francis Drake. A popular spot for pavement cafés, it is surrounded by houses with arcades that offer protection against the sun and rain. Here, too, is the monumental neo-Renaissance town hall (Palacio Municipal), with three huge domes. Spain’s finest clock museum is housed within it. Beside the town hall rises the 17th-century Baroque Iglesia de San Jorge.

Iglesia de Santiago

Stone from the Torre de Hércules was used to build this Romanesque-Gothic hall church (12th–15th century) where, in the Middle Ages, the town council met. It is the oldest church in A Coruña, featuring three apses.

Colegiata de Santa María del Campo

The saint to whom this 13thcentury church is dedicated is particularly venerated by sailors, who pray for her protection before setting off on voyages. The main portal’s decoration recalls the Pórtico da Gloria on the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela (see pp62–3). On the square in front of the church is a 15thcentury cruceiro (stone cross), one of the oldest in Galicia.

Jardines San Carlos

The Romantic-style San Carlos gardens, laid out on the site of a fortress whose walls have survived to this day, form one of the most charming corners of A Coruña. Buried at their centre is the Scottish General John Moore, killed by the French at the Battle of Elviña (1809). Among the many trees are some especially fine elms.

Museo Arqueológico Paseo Parrote.

This museum, housed in the Castillo de San Antón, an 18th-century fortress, traces the history of Galicia. On show are exhibits from the Palaeolithic period up to the time of the Roman conquest, more exhibits presenting the culture of the castros (fortified villages) and medieval sculptures and coats of arms used to illustrate the most important events in A Coruña’s history.

Domus

Also known as the Casa del Hombre (Museum of Mankind), this is the world’s first interactive museum devoted entirely to the human being. The futuristic building in which it is housed was designed by the Japanese architect Arata Isozaki.

Torre de Hércules Avenida de Navarra.

The Tower of Hercules is the world’s oldest working lighthouse. Since the 2nd century its beam has warned sailors that they are approaching land. The lighthouse was built during the reign of the Emperor Trajan, but according to legend it was built by Hercules. Its current appearance is the result of renovation carried out in the 18th century. The 59.5 m (180 ft) shaft rests on a square base; you can climb the 234 steps up to the top.

Дата добавления: 2015-08-13