The Development of Garment Styles

Almost all clothes are constructed in one of three basic ways: tailored, draped, or composite. These three garment styles appear today in almost all cultures. However, the actual form they take varies with cultures.

The tailored garments are cut and sewn to fit the human body. Examples of tailored garments include suits, pants and fitted jackets.

The development of woven fabric led to the second major clothing construction method, the draped garment. Draped garments are created from an uncut piece of fabric that is draped, wrapped, or hung on the body.

Draped garments can fit tightly or loosely. Pins, buttons, toggles and belts or sashers are used to hold them in place. Fabric squares and rectangles are neither cut nor sewn to make draped garments.

Early woven fabrics were most commonly used to make draped garments. In part, this is because woven fabrics take a long time to weave by hand. As a result, people probably decided to drape the fabric whenever possible rather than cut it. The unfinished edges could then be knotted or fringed when they are removed from the loom to prevent raveling. Cutting fabric also takes time and draping is simpler and faster.

Draped clothes have other advantages. A large square or rectangular piece of fabric can take on a variety of shapes, depending on how it is draped. The same piece of fabric can be wrapped to give several different looks, or to serve several purposes. For example, it could be used at different times as a garment, a bed covering, or for carrying things.

In many cultures, draped garments appear in many different styles. Ancient Egyptians wore a draped garment called a schenti.

Greeks wore chitons and himations, and Romans wore togas and stolas. Today women in India wear saris, and men wear dhotis. Both are draped garments. In Arab cultures, people often wear draped garments to protect themselves from the heat.

In composite garments, material is shaped and sewn to hang loosely on the body. Sometimes the material is even left, or an uncut piece is sewn into a large-shaped piece. Composite garments always hang loosely on the body. The garment may hang from the head, shoulders, waist, or hips.

In American culture, tunics, some skirts and bathrobes are composite garments. Chinese robes, Japanese kimonos, Peruvian ponchos, and Plains Indians blanket tunics are often examples of composite garments.

Caftans, worn in many cultures are also composite garment.

III Make up a plan of the text.

IV Translate the paragraphs in italics in a written form.

V Questions for discussion:

1. What are the main ways of constructing clothes?

2. What does each way of designing depend on?

3. How is a tailored garment made?

4. How can draped clothes be fixed?

5. What is an advantage of draping?

6. What are garments of different styles like?

7. What are the most famous examples of such clothes in different cultures?

8. What kind of garment can be used for different purposes?

9. What is the most time-taking way of making clothes?

10. What style is preferable in modern Europe?

TEXT C

I Mind the following words and word-combinations:

1. medieval – середньовічний

2. an engine-powered machine – машина з двигуном

3. naked – голий

4. woven grasses – плетена трава

5. a spindle - веретено

6. a loom – ткацький верстат

II Listen to the text and be ready to answer the questions:

1. Why was it a problem to own many items of the wardrobe in Ancient Times?

2. Could clothes ‘talk’? If yes, explain how.

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