International

Shanghai is quite popular with both global superchefs and less-established international talents trying to make a name for themselves, and it’s worth taking note of their presence; there are some fantastic meals to be had here. Many gastronomic destinations are not adverse to incorporating local ingredients and flavours; it’s not exactly fusion cuisine, but it’s not something you’re likely to get back home either.

Much lower down on the food chain are Shanghai’s pubs, which are seriously happening dining destinations, both because of the convivial atmosphere and the huge servings of comfort food. Burgers, plates of pasta and countless sandwich variations are offered by the majority of big-name drinking destinations, and while the food is neither cheap nor particularly memorable, the venues are almost always packed with locals and expats alike.

Diners with Sichuanese dishes
EMANUELE CICCOMARTINO / GETTY IMAGES ©

Vegetarians

Chizhai (vegetarianism) became something of a snobbish fad in Shanghai in the 1930s, when it was linked to Taoist and Buddhist groups. It’s now undergoing a minor revival, although there’s nothing like the huge vegetarian and vegan populations in countries such as the UK or the USA. Beyond Buddhist reasons, very few Chinese give up meat as an ethical choice. But there is a growing band of vegetarian restaurants in Shanghai, while monasteries all have good nonmeat restaurants.

The Chinese are masters at adding variety to vegetarian cooking and, to the bemusement of Western vegetarians, they like to create so-called ‘mock meat’ dishes. Chinese vegetarian food is based on doufu (bean curd or tofu), to which crafty chefs add their magic. Not only is it made to taste like any meaty food you could possibly think of, it’s also made to resemble it; dishes can be made to look like everything from fish to spare ribs.

Spicy wok-fried dish
OUROBOROS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Etiquette

Strict rules of etiquette don’t apply to Chinese dining; table manners are relaxed and get more so as the meal unfolds and the drinks flow. Meals commence in Confucian fashion – with good intentions, harmonic arrangement of chopsticks and a clean tablecloth – before spiralling into total Taoist mayhem, fuelled by incessant toasts with baijiu (hard liquor) or beer and furious smoking all round. Large groups in particular wreak havoc wherever they dine, with vast quantities of food often strewn across and under the table at the end of a meal.

Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant (Click here)
GARDEL BERTRAND / GETTY IMAGES ©

A typical dining scenario sees a group of people seated at a round table, often with one person ordering on everyone’s behalf. At Chinese restaurants, group diners never order their own dishes, but instead a selection of dishes embracing both rou (meat) and cai (vegetables) are chosen for every­one to share. At large tables, dishes are placed on a lazy Susan, so the food revolves to each diner, occasionally knocking over full glasses of beer and causing consternation. Rice normally comes at the end of the meal. If you want it before, just ask.

The mainland Chinese dig their chopsticks into communal dishes, although some dishes are ladled out with spoons. Don’t worry too much about your chopstick technique; many Chinese are equally fazed by knives and forks. Regardless of your skill, remember not to point them at people or stick them upright in bowls of rice; it’s a portent of death.

Peking duck
LEUNG VAI CHI, ROSANNA / GETTY IMAGES ©

Service

If there’s one thing that drives foreigners in Shanghai crazy, it’s the service. To be fair, some waiters and waitresses really are completely disorganised and indifferent, but the real underlying problem here is twofold: first, Chinese and Westerners have completely different expectations when it comes to what constitutes good service; second, overcoming the language barrier is no trifling matter. Remember that many waitstaff will only have a minimal command of English (if they speak it at all), and unless you are able to hold your own in Mandarin, there will inevitably be a few mix-ups and scowling faces somewhere along the way. Occasionally a waiter or waitress will be so intimidated by a non-Chinese-speaking customer that they will, unfortunately, completely ignore you, especially if it’s a busy night. If you’re having trouble, shout out Fuwuyuan! (Waiter/Waitress!) loudly – don’t be shy – and someone will usually appear.

If you’re eating at a smaller place without a menu, be sure to clarify the total price before you finalise your order.

Дата добавления: 2015-11-14