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(Lǜchá; 250 Jiefang Lu; 250 meals ¥70) Doing a brisk trade, this excellent Hángzhōu restaurant has superb food and should be one of your first stops. With a bare brick finish and decorated with rattan utensils and colourful flower-patterned cushions, the dining style is casual. The long paper menu (tick what you want) includes clam soup (¥19) – a plate of mussels that is a salty and moreish dish, spiced up with chilli. The eggplant claypot (¥20) is simply gorgeous while the Green Tea roast chicken (half/whole ¥25/48) is tasty. Avoid the coffee unless you like super-sweet creamer added automatically. Further four branches in town.

Sleeping in Hángzhōu

If you don’t stay in a hotel at least within easy reach of the lake, you’ll be kicking yourself afterwards. If calling ahead to book, note that the area code for Hángzhōu is 0571.

» Four Seasons Hotel Hángzhōu Offline map Google map (Hángzhōu Xīzi Hú Sìjì Jiudiàn; 8829 8888; www.fourseasons.com/hangzhou; 5 Lingyin Lu; 5 d ¥3048-3738, ste from ¥6693; ) This fabulous 78-room, two-swimming-pool hotel enjoys a seductive position in lush grounds next to West Lake, its low-storey buildings and villas echoing traditional China. The spacious ground-floor deluxe premier rooms come with garden; rooms have lovely bathrooms, walk-in wardrobe and hugely inviting beds.

» Tea Boutique Hotel Offline map Google map (Hángzhōu Tiānlún Jīngpin Jiudiàn; www.teaboutiquehotel.com; 8799 9888; 124 Shuguang Lu; 124 d ¥988-1280, ste ¥2688; ) Beyond the sinuously shaped reception area, a Japanese minimalist mood holds sway among celadon teacups, muted colours and – interestingly for China – a Bible in each room. Double-glazed windows roadside keep the traffic noise low. Service is excellent and healthy discounts run between 20% and 40%.

» Mingtown Youth Hostel Offline map Google map (Míngtáng Hángzhōu Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè; 8791 8948; 101-11 Nanshan Lu; 101-11 dm/s/d ¥60/185/265; ) With its pleasant lakeside location, this friendly hostel is often booked out, so reserve well ahead. It has a relaxing cafe/bar, offers ticket booking, internet access, and rents bikes and camping gear.

» In Lake Youth Hostel Offline map Google map (Liuhú Xiaozhú Qīngnián Lǚshè; 8682 6700; 5 Luyang Lu; 5 6-bed dm with shower ¥70, tw & d ¥368-448; ) A few steps from picturesque West Lake off Nanshan Lu, this friendly and amenable hostel radiates a peaceful ambience, with a flower-bedecked courtyard, clean dorms (all with shower), smart doubles and twins, a roof terrace for barbecues, downstairs cafe/bar and welcoming staff.

» Wúshānyì International Youth Hostel Offline map Google map (Wúshānyì Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè; 22 Zhongshan Zhonglu; 22 d/tr ¥248/320; ) With a healthy mix of Chinese and Western travellers, this quiet, unhurried and comfy hostel has clean and well-looked-after rooms and excellent, helpful staff plus a charmingly tucked-away location off Qīnghéfáng Old Street. If it’s full, try the Hofang International Youth Hostel (Héfāng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè; 8706 3299; 67 Dajing Xiang) round the corner.

Grandma’s Kitchen Hángzhōu $

 

Offline map Google map (Wàipójiā; 3 Hubin Lu; 3 mains ¥6-55; 10.30am-2pm & 4-9pm) With all the Hángzhōu classics and more at unbeatable prices, this superb restaurant chain is a huge favourite with the locals. The braised pork (hóngshāo dōngpō ròu) is divine.

La Pedrera Spanish $$

 

Offline map Google map (Bātèluò Xībānyá Cāntīng; 8886 6089; 4 Baishaquan, Shuguang Lu; 4 tapas from ¥30, meals ¥200; 11am-11pm) This fine two-floor Spanish restaurant just off Shuguang Lu bar street has tapas diners in a whirl, seafood paella aficionados applauding and Spanish wine fans gratified. Prices may take a sizeable bite from your wallet, but the convivial atmosphere and assured menu prove popular and enjoyable.

Jīn Shā Chinese $$$

 

Offline map Google map (Jīn Shā Tīng; 8829 8888; www.fourseasons.com/hangzhou; Four Seasons Hotel Hángzhōu, 5 Lingyin Lu; 5 meals ¥300; lunch & dinner) For fine waterside Hángzhōu, Shànghai and Cantonese cuisine in a particularly elegant and well-presented ambience, you can’t go far wrong with this signature restaurant at the Four Seasons Hángzhōu Hotel; there’s al fresco seating on the terrace outside and a fine selection of teas and wines.

Dōngyīshùn Muslim $

 

Offline map Google map (Dōngyīshùn; 101 Gaoyin Jie; 101 mains ¥12-50; 11am-9pm) Specialising in food from China’s Muslim Hui minority, this is much more than the average Xīnjiāng restaurant you find all over China. It has lamb kebabs (yáng ròu chuàn; ¥2), lamb on naan bread (nángbāo ròu; ¥50) and fried noodle pieces (chao piàn; ¥12) like all the others, but you’ll also find hummus dishes, doner kebabs and even felafel (¥20).

Lao Hángzhōu Fēngwèi Hángzhōu $

 

Offline map Google map (141 Gaoyin Jie; 141 mains from ¥20; 11.30am-9pm) This overlit restaurant is one of several along Gaoyin Jie selling traditional Hángzhōu cuisine. Try the flavoursome diced chicken and eggplant pot (lao hángzhōu jīli qiézi bāo; ¥28), the salty and fatty Hángzhōu style lamb chops (lao hángzhōu kaoyángpái; ¥68) or the dōngpō pork (dōngpō ròu; ¥15 per chunk).

Lóuwàilóu Hángzhōu $$

 

Offline map Google map (30 Gushan Lu; 30 mains ¥20-200; 10.30am-3.30pm & 4.30-8.45pm) With a choice location on Bai Causeway, and fine lakeside views, the city’s most famous restaurant has been going since 1848. It serves up expensive but delicious Hángzhōu favourites such as Lóngjing shrimp (Lóngjing xiārén; ¥198) and braised pork (dōngpō ròu; ¥14 per chunk), as well as reasonably priced standard Chinese dishes (¥20 to ¥50).

Maya Bar Bar

 

Offline map Google map (Maya Jiubā; 94 Baishaquan, Shuguang Lu; 94 noon-2am) Jim Morrison, Kurt Cobain, Mick Jagger, Bob Dylan and the Beatles watch on approvingly from the walls of this darkly lit, solid and rock-steady bar. Just as importantly, the drinks are seriously cheap; happy hour sees draught beer costing a risible ¥10 (¥20 at other times). The staff may be morose, but so what?


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