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( 6393-1234, ext 6318; 1st fl, Hyatt on the Bund, 199 Huangpu Rd; 199 1 roast duck half/whole Y138/198, dishes from Y48; 11.30am-2.30pm & 6-11pm; Tiantong Rd) Shanghai’s premier kaoya (roast duck) experience, this upscale hotel restaurant pulls out all the stops, importing all the necessary ingredients (including the chefs and a special brick oven) direct from the capital. In addition to the sleek open kitchen, it’s unusually intimate inside. Other first-rate dishes on offer include beggar’s chicken (a Hangzhou speciality), which needs to be ordered at least four hours in advance. Reserve.

Hongkou Architecture

Hongkou has a rich crop of architectural gems, from run-down terraced houses and dilapidated shikumen (stone-gate houses) to riverside art-deco structures, noble concession-period classics, heritage hotels and converted abattoirs.

1933 Offline map Google map (1933 Shanghai 1933 Laochangfang;; 10 Shajing Rd; 10) A magnificent concrete slaughterhouse transformed into a shopping complex (the shops themselves are of less interest), with very photogenic ‘air bridges’ intact.

Hongkew Methodist Church Offline map Google map (Jingling Tang;; 135 Kunshan Rd; 135) Dating from 1923, this is the church where Chiang Kaishek married Soong Meiling. It’s generally closed to the public, but the caretaker may let you in.

New Asia Hotel (Xinya Dajiudian; 422 Tiantong Rd; 422) One of Shanghai’s rich brood of art-deco wonders.

Main Post Office Offline map Google map (Guoji Youju;) Overlooking Suzhou Creek, this supremely grand building dates from 1924, is topped with a cupola and clock tower, and ornamented with bronze statues coated in a green patina.

Broadway Mansions (Shanghai Dasha; 20 North Suzhou Rd; 20) Looming over Suzhou Creek, this classic brick pile (resembling a Ministry of Truth) was built to great fanfare in 1934 as an apartment block and later used to house American officers after WWII. Today it’s a hotel.

Astor House Hotel Offline map Google map (Pujiang Fandian;) Bursting with history, this classic old-timer has a yarn or two to tell and a lot of fans: it’s an excellent place to base oneself for swift access to the Bund (Click here).

Embankment Building Offline map Google map (Hebin Dasha;; 400 North Suzhou Rd; 400) Designed by architects Palmer & Turner, dating from 1935 and home to Chai Living Residences.

Russian Consulate (Éluosi Lingshiguan;) This grand red-roofed concession building rises up just north of Waibaidu Bridge.

Shikumen Architecture Examples can be found if you stroll north along Zhapu Rd from Kunshan Rd and pop into the first pinched alley at No 313 (313) on your left, where a line of typical shikumen awaits, decorated with distinctively carved lintels. Emerging from the alley, turn right along Baiguan Jie for a short walk north to admire a further cluster of shikumen through the archway on your right. Other areas that are good for shikumen buildings are Zhoushan Rd, especially at its southern end. The market street of Dongyuhang Rd, which it crosses, also has some interesting shikumen entrances. Shanyin Rd is a pleasant tree-lined street with a number of shikumen -filled alleyways branching off it.

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