Théâtre des Arts

Théâtre des Champs-Elysées

Theosophists

Time

Times, The (London)

Tonight or Never (film)

Toulemon, Elise (Caryathis)

Toulmin, Evelyn

Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri

Train, Susan

Train Bleu

Train Bleu, Le (ballet)

Traviata, La (opera)

tweed

Tzara, Tristan

United States

in World War I,

Uriage, France

Uzanne, Octave

Vadim, Roger

Valentino

Valéry, Paul

Vallat, Xavier

Vanderbilt, Consuelo

Varennes, France

Vaufreland, Louis de

Vendôme

Venice, Italy

Verdun, Battle of

Verlaine, Paul

Versailles Conference (1919)

Vichy, France

Victoria, Grand Duchess

Victory Ball, Paris

Viezaux, Etienne de (St. Stephen)

Viggiano, Yvonne

Villa Larralde

Vilmorin, Louise de

Vionnet, Madeleine

Visconti, Luchino

Vivien, Renée

Vogue

Vreeland, Diana

Vuillard, Édouard

Wagner, Richard

waistlines

Wales, David Prince of, see Edward VIII, King of England

Warkowska, Madame

Waugh, Evelyn

Weber-Rosenkranz, Baroness

Wertheimer, Alain

Wertheimer, Gérard

Wertheimer, Jacques

Wertheimer, Paul

Wertheimer, Pierre

West, Mae

West, Shelagh

Westminster, Duke of, see Bend’Or

Wilhelm II, Kaiser

Williams, Harrison

Williams, Mona

women

bodies of

horse riding by

liberation of

in men’s clothes

practical outfits worn by

Women’s Wear Daily

Woolf, Virginia

World War I,

casualties of

French mutinies in

technology in

World War II,

Gabrielle’s escape from Paris in

Phony War in

Worth, Charles Frederick

Wyndham, Diana

Capel’ affair with

Gabrielle disliked by

Wyndham, Percy

youth

Yturbe, Miguel de

Zola, Emile

Zuylen, Egmont van

Zuylen, Maggie van

Zweig, Arnold

1. The vast chestnut forests seen from Ponteils, the mountainous Cevennes hamlet where Gabrielle’s paternal ancestors lived.

2. Gabrielle’s great-grandfather’s inn, “the Chanel.” Today, the shutters firmly shut, its stony bulk has an air of neglect.

3. The Aubazine convent-orphanage where Gabrielle lived for many years.

4. The earliest known photograph of Gabrielle, with Adrienne at Vichy c. 1904.

5. Etienne Balsan on military service, c. 1903, around the time Gabrielle met him.

6. Gabrielle, c. 1909. Tastes were changing; her angular “modern” beauty had become desirable.

7. The famed courtesan, Emilienne d’Alençon, Etienne Balsan’s lover when Gabrielle appeared on the scene.

8. Royallieu, where Gabrielle lived with Etienne as his mistress.

9. Arthur “Boy” Capel, c. 1910, who was to transform Gabrielle’s life.

10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle. Jodhpurs and sitting astride were unconventional for a horsewoman in 1910.

11. Arthur Capel was a noted horseman and excelled at polo.

12. Gabrielle in her own hats, seen in Comoedia Illustré, 1910.

13. The actress Gabrielle Dorziat 1910, in “Marie-Louise” hats, almost indistinguishable from Gabrielle’s own designs.

14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat for the play Bel Ami, 1912.

15. Gabrielle Dorziat in another Chanel hat, 1912.

16. Outside Gabrielle’s boutique with Adrienne (left) in Deauville, 1913. Note the awning reading “Gabrielle Chanel.”

17. By 1913 Gabrielle was becoming known, and Sem caricatured her with her immensely eligible lover Arthur Capel.

18. Gabrielle at her Deauville shop doorway. Previously unrecognized, on her right is Capel; furthest right is Balsan, still a friend. (There are only a handful of known photos of Gabrielle and Capel together.)

19. Gabrielle was in the minority of women who took to playing sports. At Deauville, c. 1913.

20. Gabrielle, Capel and Constant

Say at St-Jean-de-Luz in a moment of calm during the First World War.

21. The Picassos in front of Pablo’s Ballets Russes poster, 1917. Olga’s outfit, including her handbag, are Chanel.

22. John Singer Sargent’s drawing of Diana Wyndham, the young Englishwoman who would usurp Gabrielle.

23. Deauville Polo Club’s Arthur Capel trophy, given by his sister, Berthe, possibly in conjunction with Gabrielle.

24. Sergei Diaghilev (left) and Igor Stravinsky, c. 1920, with whom Gabrielle became intimately associated.

25. Clockwise from top left: Stravinsky, José Maria Sert, Gabrielle and the inimitable Misia Sert.

26. Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich.

27. Gabrielle in the garden of her palatial new address, 29 Faubourg St-Honoré, early 1920s.

28. Dmitri Pavlovich. with Gabrielle, 1920.

29. The earliest depiction of Chanel № 5, by Sem, c. 1921–2.

30. Gabrielle’s costumes for Le Train bleu, 1922, were crucial to its up-to-the-minute air. Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Jean Cocteau, Leon Woizikovsky, Bronislava Nijinska.

31. Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Bronislava Nijinska and Leon Woizikovsky in Le Train bleu.

32. Lubov Tchernicheva as Calliope in Apollon musagète, 1929, her tricot tunic bound with neckties from Charvet, a classically simple Chanel touch.

33. The poet Pierre Reverdy, whom Gabrielle lost to his religion.

34. Paul Morand, man of letters, who took Gabrielle’s memoir.

35. Bend’Or, Second Duke of Westminster.

36. The Duke of Westminster’s Cheshire home, Eaton Hall.

37. Gabrielle with Winston and Randolph Churchill, boar-hunting on Bend’Or’s French estate, 1928.

38. Marion Morehouse in a signature “little black dress” by Gabrielle, 1926.

39. At Biarritz, 1928, in her trademark jersey, two-tone shoes and imitation jewelery.

40. Gabrielle on the Venice Lido, c. 1930, with Misia Sert and Madame Berthelot. José Maria Sert is behind.

41. Skiing with society; Gabrielle (center). Behind are Etienne and Edith de Beaumont.

42. Gabrielle in jersey suit, c. 1931; note the return of the waist.

43. In New York, 1931, on Gabrielle’s triumphant first trip to the United States.

44. Gabrielle with English society models, 1932; Lady Pamela Smith stands.

45. With and photographed by Cecil Beaton, c. 1937.

46. Gabrielle, her jewelery designer Fulco di Verdura and his work, 1937.

47. With Salvador Dalí, c. 1938.

48. Apelles Fenosa sculpts Gabrielle, c. 1939.

49. Gabrielle’s close friend Maggie van Zuylen and the dancer Serge Lifar.

50. Baron von Dincklage at fifty-four, Gabrielle’s lover during and after the war.

51. Gabrielle’s 1954 suit, in the U.S. Vogue photo shoot, was instrumental in resuscitating her name.

52. Suzy Parker, in one of the three outfits shot for U.S. Vogue in 1954.

53. On the famed staircase at 31 rue Cambon, before Gabrielle’s 1954 comeback show.

54. Some of the models who added luster to Maison Chanel: Marie-Hélène Arnaud, Gisèle Francome, Paule Rizzo and Mimi d’Arcangues in 1958.

55. Gabrielle, once again famous, in a characteristic pose, 1959.

56. Gabrielle’s sculptures seen in the salon at rue Cambon: in the fireplace a Jacques Lipchitz; on the mantel, classical torso and masks.

57. At rue Cambon, the bust of Thomas Capel on mantel, Gabrielle’s astrological lions on the table and a Coromandel screen behind.

58. An elderly Gabrielle in her salon with her chandelier of personal symbols, c. 1965.

59. Gabrielle’s funeral mass in the Madeleine church, January 13, 1971, her coffin draped in flowers. Her models, in Chanel, stand at the front.

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