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Россия глазами иранца

Впечатления об Иране летом 2008 | Что известно русскому об Иране? | Не Индия | Цементный завод удушливым летом | Марджан | Революция | История | Коммунистка | Интеллигент |


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Подлетая ясным летним утром к Москве, засматриваешься на бескрайние сладостно-зеленые леса Россия, на прохладные гигантские озера с белыми треугольниками парусов. Воды и зелени неправдоподобно много.

Выхожу из аэропорта, захватывает дыхание: загорелое женское тело! Стринги на загорелом женском теле! Они видны, вылезают из обтягивающих бриджей. Блондинка с копной мелко вьющихся волос. Поджарая, с холеной кожей. Золотая цепочка с крестиком и ярко-красные ногти на ногах. Родная русская женщина. Возвращается из турции-египта, стоит кого-то ждет.

Мчимся по шоссе, верчу головой: какой масштаб зданий, какое богатство, какое все новое, какие смелые формы развязок, какое радостное буйство рекламы. Женщины стоят на остановках, не понимая, как они привлекательны. ИКЕЯ! Я вернулся, я горжусь за свою страну!

 

"Marjan"

 

"Shariat confuses foreigner. To avoid problems one would try to walk aside from iranian women. One would avoid even asking them what is the time. When on the street early matured iranian schoolgirls pass you by and drop "hello" to you and being inspired with their own courage laugh behind you - you feel as if you are little frightened schoolgirl yourself: "If only all those bearded men around wound not think I pretend to enjoy with what is forbidden for them!"
16-year old Marjan has also started from "hello" on deserted hot street. But she hasn't rushed away, she looked at me, she stopped. Quite definetely I was scared: I was talking to Iranian woman for the first time after a week in Iran. She - with strange calmness - was talking to man-foreigner amidst provincial town.

Marjan is not high girl with smart face, big eyes with so white whites [of the eye] and so black pupils [of the eye] as of "negro"-puppet.
After 3 days of communication Marjan has created in my head parallel reality ([different world]) in which Iranian woman is natural and confident. And besides - thoughtful, with sense of humor, energetic, with inquisitive intellect.
Marjan is sincere and natural believer [in god]. She does not find it interesting to talk about faith [in god] - I think as we [do not find it interesting] to speak about [municipal] centralized heating: it is very important but why should we talk about it. Does she pray 7 times a day? Marjan sighs, charmfully rolls up her eyes: regretfully not always. It seems she is sure that old Allah will not be able to be angry with her for a long time. It's not comfortable for her to discuss authorities. About all other thing we talked very much.
Marjan's father is respectful worker in carpet producton. He loves Marjan very much, for his salary he has built house with patio [yard]. Mother also loves Marjan, she stays at home and treat Islam's restrictions very broadly and all the time scolds Marjan. At our second meeting Marjan put on the most strict black "monk" [in Russia christian monk-women wear very similar clothes] clothes to heels [Russian idiom: so long that it covers heels]. Not because of myself, just mom to see "that I am good girl". Besides there is elder brother - somewhere in the university. Marjan loves family, loves patio, loves her room, loves god, loves her best "friend" - i.e. her best girlfriend.
Marjan is going to become biologist, she studies and works, [she is] busy all the time: she comes running to out meetings always being late - out of her breath. Under black covers there are jeans, teenager's bag across shoulders.
She works as store-keeper in the very dull clothes store for the salary of $100.
Generally speaking Marjan combines self-cofidence of the grown up with such teenager's features like live journal decorated with pictures of glamourous western girls, like confidence that her girlfriend will forever remain most important person for her.
All the time that we were walking along the streets, talking in cafe, meeting in my hotel and even attending my room I was fearing: whether police will arrest us, whether passers by will insult us, whether Marjan will cry if I touch her. All this has added suspense (nervous atmosphere) to our meetings, we have talked excitedly on rather irregular English and were finding it very interesting. At our last meeting hidden in the remote corner of internet-cafe we have kissed each other as teenagers. Marjan went running to her store. And I have never seen her hair.


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