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The largest surviving Yuan-dynasty monument in Beijing (1206–1368), the chalk-white pagoda here makes a great landmark. There are hundreds of Tibetan Buddhist statues too. After visiting, plunge into the surrounding alleyways for a taste of the local hutong life.
PRINCE GONG’S RESIDENCE 恭王府
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Liuyin Jie 柳荫街 14 号; admission Y40; 8.30am-4.30pm; Ping’anli
One of Beijing’s largest residential compounds, this elaborately restored collection of pavilions has fantastic gardens. But it heaves with domestic tour groups, so get here early to avoid the crowds. From March to October, Peking opera ( 
6618 6628; tickets Y80-120; 
7.30-8.40pm) performances are staged here too.
SHOP
XING MU’S HANDICRAFTS 兴木手工 Souvenirs
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Www.craftxm.com, in Chinese; 2 Yandai Xiejie 烟 袋 斜 街 2 号; 10am-midnight; Gulou Dajie
The hand-bound books, some made of hemp and linen and emblazoned with Peking opera masks and scenes of Beijing life, make ideal gifts, or a good diary to record your Beijing trip. The shelves are also loaded down with sheaves of artisan paper.
EAT
CAFÉ SAMBAL Southeast Asian YY
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6400 4875; 43 Doufuchi Hutong 旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 43 号; 11am-midnight; 
Gulou Dajie; 
Housed in a cool, converted courtyard house just off Jiugulou Dajie, come here for classic Malaysian cuisine – curries, beef rendang and sambals – as well as for potent mojitos.
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| Wenjin Jie 文津街 ; admission Y10; 6am-8pm, sights 9am-5pm, last entry 4pm; Xisi | | | Www.chncpa.org; 2 Xichang’an Jie 西 长 安 街 2 号 ; tickets Y80-880; Tiananmen Xi |