Beijing Museum of Red Chamber Culture & Art A5 2. Fayuan Temple B4 3. Niujie Mosque B3 SHOP

Maliandao Tea Market A3 5. Rongbaozhai C2 6. Ruifuxiang D2 7. Tongrentang D2 8. Yuehaixuan Musical Instrument Store C2 EAT

Goubuli D2 10. Turpan Restaurant B3 PLAY

11. Huguang Guild Hall C3 12. Lao She Tea House D2 13. Tianqiao Acrobatics Theatre D4

Districts

top of chapter >XUANWU 宣武

Southwest of Tiananmen Sq, Xuanwu is a souvenir hunter’s paradise. It’s home to the bustling and historic Dazhalan Jie, where many of Beijing’s oldest shops can be found, and the charming Liulichang Xijie, the place to head to for calligraphy and traditional art, as well as antiques and Mao-era memorabilia.

But there’s more to Xuanwu than just shopping. Despite some serious redevelopment, there are still plenty of hutong (alleyways) running through it, while this is also where you’ll find theatres staging Peking opera and acrobatics. In the south of Xuanwu is Niu Jie, the centre of Beijing’s Muslim community, as well as Fayuan Temple, an ancient and important Buddhist shrine.

The western end of Dazhalan Jie was undergoing a major makeover at the time of writing, so expect some changes. Subway line 4 runs north–south through Xuanwu, but otherwise you’ll have to rely on taxis to get around.

SEE

BEIJING MUSEUM OF RED CHAMBER CULTURE & ART 北京红楼文化艺术博物馆

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Nancaiyuan Jie 南菜园街 12 号; admission Y40; 7.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; Beijing South Railway Station

A tranquil oasis in busy Xuanwu, this is a replica of the garden in Cao Xueqin’s classic Chinese novel Dream of the Red Mansion. Cryptic English signs explain key points in the story. It’s sometimes called the Grand View Garden.

FAYUAN TEMPLE 法源寺

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