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Precious Belt Bridge Bridge

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(Baodài Qiáo) Straddling the Grand Canal southeast of Sūzhōu, and boasting 53 arches, the highly impressive Precious Belt Bridge is thought to be a Tang-dynasty construction. It’s a 40-minute bike ride. Head south on Renmin Lu, past the south moat, then left at the TV towers, and the bridge will be on your right. If you’re heading to Tóngli, you’ll see the bridge on your right.

Tours

Hour-long evening boat tours (¥120 per person) do half-circuit return trips along the outer moat. Boats leave every half-hour between 6.30pm and 8.30pm. Buy tickets from the Sūzhōu Wharf (Sūzhōu Matóu; near Renmin Bridge;).

Eight-person row boats (per boat ¥150) ply the canals by Pingjiang Lu where, towards the northern end of the lane, you’ll find a ticket office.

Eating

Sūzhōu’s most celebrated restaurants are in and around the pedestrianised shopping street of Guanqian Jie, while loads of cheap restaurants cluster at the eastern end of Shizi Jie, immediately south of the university.

For cute canal-side cafes and traditional(ish) teahouses, wander to the charming cobblestone street of Pingjiang Lu. For brash, late-night bars and more wi-fi cafes, head to Shiquan Jie. A vege­tarian restaurant can be found at the West Garden Temple.

Zhūhóngxìng Noodles $

 

Offline map Google map (Gong Xiang; dishes from ¥20; 7am-9pm) One of Sūzhōu’s most popular noodle joints, this long-standing canteen-style place serves some scrummy and filling noodles. Try the lovely crispy duck noodles (cuìpí shāoyā miàn; ¥23).

Yàkèxī Uighur $$

 

Offline map Google map (Yàkèxī Jiulóu; 768 Shiquan Jie; 768 mains ¥40; 9am-midnight) The Uighur kitsch atmosphere may be a bit cheesy but the Xīnjiāng staples – lamb kebabs (¥3.50), hot and spicy lamb soup (¥16) and nang bread (¥3) – are all tasty. Round it off with a bottle of SinKiang beer (¥10) and dream of Kashgar. Lamb kebabs also grilled for takeaway outside.

Xīshèngyuán Dumplings $

 

Offline map Google map (43 Fenghuang Jie; dumplings from ¥8) You can join the crowd outside waiting for xiaolóngbāo, take a seat and order inside, or settle for some tasty wonton dumplings (húntūn; from ¥6).

Déyuèlóu Jiāngsū $$

 

Offline map Google map (43 Taijian Long; 43 dishes ¥30-120; 24hr) For local specialities such as squirrel-shaped mandarin fish (¥140) and Sūzhōu-style fried fish (¥25), try this long-standing restaurant near the Temple of Mystery.

Drinking

Dicey bars with names like the Drunken Clam, Box Bar, Nowhere Bar or simply the Pub Bar are slung out along Shiquan Jie. Pingjiang Lu is the place for serene cafe culture.


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