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( 5466 5070; 2nd fl, 4 Hengshan Rd; 4 2 dishes Y38-108; ; Hengshan Rd) A throwback to the 1930s, Yin emanates soft, jazzy decadence with its antique furnishings, Song-dynasty-style tableware and Ella Fitzgerald on the stereo. But they’re as much visionaries as they are traditionalists. The kitchen has adopted older cooking techniques – back from the days before MSG – and prepares standout regional dishes from across China, including the superbly named ‘squid lost in a sandstorm’.

Jesse Shanghainese $$

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(Jishi Jiulou; 6282 9260; 41 Tianping Rd; 41 dishes Y28-98; Jiaotong University) Jesse specialises in packing lots of people into tight spaces, so if you tend to gesture wildly when you talk, watch out with those chopsticks. This is Shanghainese home-cooking at its best: crab dumplings, Grandma’s braised pork and plenty of fish, drunken shrimp and eel. There are several branches around town – such as the one at 28 Taojiang Road (Xinjishi; 6445 0068; Changshu Rd) – though serious foodies should make the effort to trek out to the original.

Fu 1039 Shanghainese $$$

Дата добавления: 2015-11-14