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(Chenxiang Ge; 29 Chenxiangge Rd; 29 admission Y10; 7am-5pm; Yuyuan Garden) Sheltering a community of dark brown-clothed nuns from the chenhai (Sea of Dust) – what Buddhists call the mortal world, but which could equally refer to Shanghai’s murky atmosphere – this lovely yellow-walled temple is a tranquil respite from the mania of Shanghai. The Hall of Heavenly Kings (Tianwang Dian) envelops four gilded Heavenly Kings and a slightly androgynous form of Maitreya. Muttered prayers and chanted hymns fill the Great Treasure Hall (Daxiong Baodian), where a statue of Sakyamuni (Buddha) is flanked by two rows of nine luohan (arhat). At the rear, the Guanyin Tower (Guanyin Lou; admission Y2; 7am-3pm) guides you to a glittering effigy of the male-looking goddess upstairs within a resplendent gilded cabinet. Carved from chenxiang wood (Chinese eaglewood) and seated in lalitasana posture, head tilted and with one arm resting on her leg, this version is a modern copy (the original disappeared during the Cultural Revolution).


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