Fitting an SC14 supercharger to AW11gze

Fitting an SC14 supercharger to AW11gze

By Adsport

“What is an SC14?”

The SC14 is a rootes based positive displacement device (supercharger) which has an outlet volume of 1420cc per revolution. It is fitted to the 1GGZE found in GZ20 soarers and maybe some others. The SC14 is a ‘big brother’ of the SC12 unit of the same design found on the 4AGZE powerplant found in AW11 MR2’s and Corolla Levin AE92 and AE101. The SC12 outlet displacement is 1200cc.

Now ive heard a lot of scepticism over fitting these units to the 4a base plant. Most of the criticism to the bang for buck comes from people saying that the unit doesn’t line up with any of the brackets or existing piping, and cost way too much to setup due to the amount of custom gear required to work it. I have done some research and looked around at many setups and have not seen an SC14 setup that doesn’t have a number of custom made piping and the bigport n/a intake.

To fit this unit isn’t anything a person who’s uncomfortable with tools can do, there is a bit of grinding, cutting and some slight machining to be done. I like to be a bit of a pioneer myself trying new things that other people say can’t be done, so ive put my heart set on fitting this thing with minimal fuss, so that many people can follow the same steps and fit it up with ease.

Why it doesn’t fit: The SC14 is larger, it is longer and higher than the SC12. It’s not THAT much bigger but big enough to make a difference in an area that’s already squashed for room. The physical size and position of the lower bracket mount were just simply not made for the 4a motor.

Where it does fit: the SC14 will fit the standard lower bracket without modification, that’s all. The position the 4a lower bracket puts the SC14 in is too close to the rear (flywheel end) of the motor and the main pulley does not line up.

Here are some pics of the SC12 and SC14 units side by side:

What doesn’t fit:

1/ Main pulley: As previously stated, the main pulley doesn’t fit if ‘slapped’ onto the standard bracket without modifications to bring the whole unit forward. Some SC14 units have different pulleys, mine came with one that had a blank section on it which is advantageous to me, but we will talk about that later.

2/ Standard intake. The SC14 unit hits one of the anchor points for the stock ‘suction pipe’ this is the adaptor pipe that bolts to the intake plenum under the throttle body and feeds the supercharger intake on the standard setup.

3/ Suction pipe: The SC14 fitment is hugely hampered by the terrible casting dags and the bolt hole on the suction pipe.

4/ ABV: Aside from the fact this will vent the boost pressure after 8psi, which makes the whole operation useless, this thing is completely huge and hits the SC14 also.

5/ Lower bracket: The lower mounting points on the SC14 are wider than the SC12.

6/ Upper bracket: The SC14 uses different mounting points on the 1GGZE motor that aren’t available on the 4a.

Solutions:

1/ Pulley: my pulley, had a blank section on the end of it, two ribs lined up to my stock belt setup so I just had two more ribs machined into it by and engineer with a lathe. The pulley profile was like |\/\/\/\/``````| and is now like |\/\/\/\/\/\/``| to accommodate the 4 rib belt while lining up to everything else. As you can see it is a minimal increment that it doesn’t line up by.

2/ Standard intake: The plenum bolted to the head is nothing fancy, but if you don’t want to upgrade it or want to get away with the setup of this cheaply you can still retain it. You can do this by cutting with a grinder (4inch) the lower right hand fixing point for the suction pipe. Make sure you don’t cut it too high as you will cut a hole in the plenum. This can be done IN CAR, the plenum does not have to be removed as you can fit a grinder down the back of the motor once the gear is out.

3/ Suction pipe: The casting dags and bolt fixing point where this bolts to the plenum must be fully removed and smoothed off of the pipe, giving you much more room.

4/ ABV: you must remove this and replace with a plate. Aluminium / Steel, doesn’t matter just make sure it won’t leak pressurised air.

5/ Lower bracket: you must use a washer in the space left over in between the 14 mounting points and the SC12 bracket to the block. If you don’t do this the unit may slide over and out of place.

6/ Upper bracket: Make something.

Fitting:

First, the inlet and outlet of the unit are all wrong for your application. You can swap them over, do this by simply slotting the upper holes as the lower ones match

While you have the piping off, you must alter the pipe that will be the intake pipe. You have to cut it off while it is straight like this:

When the piping is on the unit, it will look like this:

The intake pipe will be close to the motor up against the water piping and before the unit goes in you must get some flexible hosing (a silicone bend of 2.5” internal diameter would work as good) which is 220mm long, and clamp it to the aluminium pipe.

This will then later clamp to the Suction Pipe, joining the two together. It will have an orientation somewhat like this when on the motor

Now, the “Suction pipe” must be modified or it will foul on the s/c unit making it unable to fit. You will start with a pipe that looks like this:

And you have to grind down the casting dags and the lower fixing bolt sleeve so that the pipe is smooth, allowing more room for fitment.

Now is a good time to plate the ABV hole.

Next we can get to the intake plenum, remove the lower right hand bolt fixing point, so it looks like this:

The s/c unit must have the charge pipe removed prior to slipping it down behind the motor. Watch out as it gets tight and squeezy but it does fit with a wiggle.

Spacer: this is the aforementioned washer that holds the unit from shifting forward and backwards on the bracet.

Here you can see now how much room (or how little room) you have to work with, and how less you would have had!

The suction pipe, the throttle body and intake adaptor can now be fitted, make sure you put a hose clamp on the flexible piping and slip the suction pipe into this. Bolt up the 3 remaining bolts to the plenum and tighten up the hose clamp for the pipe to the s/c inlet.

So now, you will require something to stop the unit moving towards and from the motor. To stop this movement you will need to fabricate a top bracket. I have made one up consisting of flat bar (4mmx20mm) and one nut. Sound too simple? Not really as that’s all it needs. 4mm bar is very strong, and with it being straight there is no reason for it to flex out of position. The bar needs to be a complete length of 140mm. the bar bolts to the original SC12 forward mounting point (this will be a stud in the intake plenum, replace it with a bolt if you like as I have) and with the nut at the end welded underneath it, a bolt may be put through the SC14 mounting point at the front, this will secure it very well.

The outer edge of the support bar to the hole centre of the nut will be a measurement of 130mm. This works for me and it doesn’t sit completely against the motor but offset by about 10mm to avoid possible vibration issues.

There is 15mm of clearance to the boot wall, with the altered exit pipe pointing directly up. I would expect if you would be able to get an original exit pipe on there, with it having the curve cut off as we did for the other side it would point in the same direction as the standard SC12 adaptor pipe and the original intercooler could even be retained by using a short piece of ‘hard pipe’ or a long section of silicone hose.Why you would want to do this would be supremely beyond me but hey its an idea for tightwad’s. Also, if this were setup on a RWD setup (North/South orientation) you could also use this method with the adaptor reversed to point the charge air forward to plumb an intercooler

The final setup should resemble this (this was fitted with an AE92 top pipe)

For any further information, you can email me direct, removing the spam filter at [e-mail]

Дата добавления: 2015-08-29